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A health-food supermarket might have fallen flat in Cincinnati a few years ago.

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But as consumers have grown more wary of pesticides, irradiated and genetically-modified foods, demand for organic alternatives has emboldened Wild Oats Market Inc. to build a 27,000-square-foot store in the new Rookwood Commons in Norwood.

The upscale grocery Property Valuers Adelaide opened quietly at 7 Thursday morning. A formal grand opening happened Friday evening complete with music in the store’s community center.

Wild Oats is capitalizing on the fast-growing natural foods segment of the retail grocery business.

Cincinnati-based Kroger Co., for example, opened 34 Nature’s Market natural food sections in its stores in 1999, and plans to open another 150 by the end of this year.

But Wild Oats is the first natural food store of its size in Greater Cincinnati.

Based in Boulder, Colo., the chain has grown to more than 113 stores in 22 states. The company announced in May its intention to shift its focus from smaller health-food stores to larger groceries like the new one in Norwood. The company also has stores in Cleveland and Columbus.

Regional director Dan Babb said traditional customers at health-food stores are the health-conscious and allergy sufferers. Dozens of alternatives to dairy products – rice milk and soy milk for example – are offered. Wheat-free breads and pastries are for sale as well.

Added to the mix of natural products offered at its older stores are an expanded selection of gourmet products, housewares, gift baskets, and bigger beer, wine, bakery and floral departments.

”The key for us is to educate our customers who might not have shopped in a natural-foods store before,” Babb said.

A couch in a reading area is stocked with books on healthy liv

ing. Customers can type their ailments into a computer, which recommends herbal remedies.

Wild Oats combines traditional health-food store offerings like bulk foods and herbal supplements with a range of prepared foods at a sushi bar, Mexican bar and deli.

A sign over the produce section said 186 kinds of organic fruits and vegetables were available. The total changes daily depending on availability.

”Organic produce tastes better,” Babb said. ”The first organic peach you eat is like eating candy.”

But don’t look for a pharmacy, as in traditional groceries. ”That’s the antithesis of natural,” Babb said.

The company tries to differentiate itself through putting more sales assistance on the floor than other grocery stores, Babb said. The Norwood store has 146 employees.

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